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Silly mistakes

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Tue, 07/27/2010 - 04:44
chris3755
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A few years ago I soldered a new front sight ramp on my Ruger 44 mag. I wanted to be able to change front sight heights to compensate for 44 special loads versus 44 magnum loads. Everything was fine, I shot a several dozen 44 mag. Full power loads and then a bunch of 44 special loads and all was fine. I was shooting the other day and shot at least a box of 44 specials and then I shot around six full power 44 mag loads. On the next shot my ramp landed at my feet! I was not certain what had happened until I looked at the ramp. The solder line was only evident along the right side and only a small amount on the other side. I had done this almost five years ago and was amazed that it hadn't failed until now. I guess the morale of the story is that , Shit happens. I spent the day today polishing and fitting the ramp back into place and soldered it back on. Hopefully I did a better job this time than I did before. I guess this shows that anyone can screw up and that you should be careful who you have do work on your guns. This was my own gun but think what someone would have thought when they were on a once in a lifetime hunt and this had happened! Not good for cementing good relations with your customers or friends.
Chris

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Tue, 07/27/2010 - 04:50
#1
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admin
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Questions:

What was your soldering tecnique, and what is the finish on the bbl?
Al

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Tue, 07/27/2010 - 20:07
#2
chris3755
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Ramp

HI Al: I had polished both barrel and ramp bottom thoroughly and used low temp silver solder and paste flux with a propane torch. The solder evidently hadn't flowed under the ramp, not sure why unles the flux was contaminated or possibly the parts were not thoroughly degreased. This time I repolished both again and degreased thoroughly and used new flux and soldered the ramp from all directions until the solder flowed freely around the edges. I let it cool and then started tapping it all around with a brass hammer. So far it looks good and hasn't moved from the hammering so I think it's on now. I am presently polishing it for reblueing. I may put some more full power loads through it before I do blue it just in case. What really surprised me was that it lasted this long the first time. You wouldn't think the recoil shock was that heavy on a 44 magnum, but apparently it is. I will let you know if it works. I was just kicking myself yesterday for being such a poor solderer! It's terrible to get old! When I was younger I could have whupped my butt good. Chris

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Tue, 07/27/2010 - 23:58
#3
chris3755
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Ramp after soldering

These are not good pics of the ramp but if you look close you can see a faint line along each side of the ramp where the solder flowed. I also just used a new blueing product to see how it works, Blue Wonder. I'll let you know if it comes out ok. Chris

ImageImage

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Wed, 07/28/2010 - 05:51
#4
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gunsmith
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You should tin both the

You should tin both the sight, and the barrel. Mark off the outline of the sight on the barrel, and encircle this with typewriter eraser, the bottled stuff. Some call it liquid paper. This will keep the solder from marking the barrel outside of the outline.
Apply the sight, and hold with a welding clamp. heat barrel until the solder turnes bright silver, and remove heat. Then you will have a perfect job.

Good Guns, Good Friends, and Good Whiskey. I beleive Skeeter was on to something.

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Wed, 07/28/2010 - 21:41
#5
chris3755
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gunsmith

HI gunsmith: Very good info, Soldering was never my strong suit and I hate doing it. I can braze with brass rod and oxy-acetylene but trying to solder is a pain. I made my wife solder all the copper pipes in our house, I showed her the way it was supposed to happen but couldn't actually get as good a result as she could! This front ramp project was a long ago thing and I hadn't anticipated having to do it again. Anyway, it seems to be on now and I will hope for the best. Chris.

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Wed, 07/28/2010 - 21:47
#6
chris3755
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update on bluing

I said in the previous post that I was trying a new blue product on my ramp. I am not sure of the results yet. I blued as per the instructions and after the required curing time for the sealer or developer as they call it,there was a film of rust which I wiped off and oiled. The parts are blued but I am not sure if it is any better than any other cold blue. I will see how it holds up. Chris

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