Trigger spring

Greetings Gentlmen,
I removed one leg of my trigger return spring per Mr. Taffin and it did help, but I wondered if it would hurt my Ruger SB Hunter in the long run. I ended up installing a 30 oz trigger return spring and a reduced mainspring from brownells, along with a belt mtn pin also per Mr. Taffin and and I have an excellent trigger pull for about $20 for the springs and $25 for the pin. well worth the $$.

Regards,
Greg

You bet, the kits are great, I was simply experimenting, being inquisitive by nature, to see if this technique worked. I have a Belt Mtn base pin on my Colt New Frontier but haven't used one on the Ruger yet. The reduced mainspring is a little less certain for me, I wonder about hard primers etc and weak pin strike. Just me I guess. Anyway, great commnent. Chris

I recently purchased a Stainless Steel Ruger Sheriff's Vaquero in 44 special. I looked on Belt Mountains site but there was no pin listed so I emailed Kelye Schlepp and explained my problem. He had me measure the part of the pin that was extending beyond the frame and made me a pin that is essentially the front part of a #5 pin. Not only does it tighten up the cylinder it is easier to remove and looks great. He even sent it to me to try out before charging me. The cylinder had some fore and aft play which I was able to remove with a shim ordered from Brownells. If you need or want a base pin with tighter tollerences I recommend Belt Mountain. The products and the service and professionalism is first rate and cant be beat.

Jim McCain

Thanks for the input. Good to hear BM is still a great operation. Guess I'll keep plugging their products!
Al

Yes Al, The Belt Mountain base pin for my Colt NF fit perfectly and I like the non rotating part of it, I feel, or at least hope, it will reduce wear on the frame holes. I wish they made one for my Colt Scout, I put some liquid steel on the base pin so it couldn't rotate as I put a lot of rounds through that little gun. Chris

First two things i do to any Ruger single action
1.Wolf spring kit all three
2.Belt mountain base pin #5
Them start grip shopping
I got a Stainless Bearcat thats on deck cant wait
Finding grips is the hard part on that little gun

I've tried replacing the springs with different weights in some of my rugers, in each case liked the factory springs better.

To each there own
But i would at very least change out the clynder catch spring for a heavy duty one
I perfer Wolfs
Locks them up like a Colt python and no change to trigger pull or hammer spring weight

Rugers.

Can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em.
Big Bore, you ever notice a drop in reliability with lighter mainsprings?

No
Not at all even with a steady diet of stout hand loads
The spring is just as good as factory just less weight
Basicly the spring is under less tention then a heavyer weight one in my opinon less chance of breakage as long as its quality steel springs
Like i said i perfer Wolf springs and for the price basicly $10 for a three pack(hammer,trigger,cylinder)you can buy couple different weights and find the weight of pull you perfer whether its hammer and or trigger
Five screws and some patients the Ruger thumb buster is a very easy gun to work on
Careful when you drop the grip frame the cylinder latch spring is under  tention but like i said in my opinon the best upgrade there is.Combine it with a belt mountain base pin and they lock up like fort knocks

I guess the one thing about the NM Blackhawk is just that those springs really like to fly when the grip frame comes off, and getting it back together is interesting,too. I'm not in any hurry to go through the procedure again, but you have tempted me with the promise of a tighter lockup. I have yet to own a Ruger that has a really precise and solid cylinder lockup. Even with a Belt Mtn. base pin, which is just a great addition, the Ruger cylinder wiggles like a girl looking for attention.

Not sure if I understand how a stronger bolt spring corrects slop in cylinder lineup. By nature of it's design there is a small amount of play in the slot for the bolt in the frame and a small amount of play in the stop notches on the cylinder. Please refer to a post on the Ruger Forum. Chris S
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=205689

I found that pulling bottom frame in big ziplock freezer bag takes care of the spring chasing part of Ruger single action smithing
I promise i lie not,,the cylinder catch spring replacement will slove any cylinder wobble the gun came with from the factory with
Its well worth the time
Its always good to pull the gun apart and give it good cleaning and a chance to put some 0000 steelwool to the pivot spots where metal touches metal clean any burs and lube those spots
Alot of the time it gets rid of that little gritty feeling on trigger pull and eliminates any need for trigger work or redused springs
With a Belt mtn pin,heavyer cylinder catch spring it really helps keep the cylinder in consent line with forcing cone
Now we wont get into forcing cone angle and cylinder bore size but it lines the two up tight and consistent over and over so theres one less variable in the equation so the bullet is making the jump from cylinder to forcing cone at same spot everytime

Chris
Im not saying itll make up any play between the cylinder latch pin and the notch in cylinder
But it does put more pressure on those two items
It squeezes the two tighter together
Now if theres play in between those two more pressure can only do so much
But like a closer tolerance base pin pickn up the space between frame and cylinder by being bigger size the heavyer pressure spring makes for tighter fit by means of tention

If a gun has to much space in its cylinder catches and the catch itself it might be in need if a catch pin replacing and in worst case the cylinder catches resized
I have seen this in guns with a heavy diet of stout loads or even worse improperly handloaded rounds
Ive seen a guy egg shape a superblackhawk cylinder stainless unfluted for no other reason then improper handloads way over pressure
In that case no spring will help,,,some brains and or common sence would go along way but thats all up to God

Im no expert theres men and im sure some women with much more knowledge then myself
That said i was in the gun buisness for along time,and have done alot of Ruger single action tuning
I can only give my opinon and tell everyone whats worked for me in my experiences
Please find out for yourself and any major work done or needed to any firearm can only be determined in person by a professional with insurance and a buisness
Most of the replacment part of gun tuning is easy enough and can be done cheaply with little effort and time 
You know what you are capable of give it a try
Not trying to push my opinon or say someone else does it wrong,just whats work for me

I will bow out of this conversation since I am not a really experienced Ruger user. I only have one Ruger, a Super Blackhawk which I purchased in the early eighties. When I got it home I dis-assembled it completely and cleaned it, checked it for any burrs or sticky spots, re-lubed and assembled it. Since that time I have changed rear sight blades and put a new ramp front sight with removable blade on the barrel and shot the hell out of it ever since. I have not experienced any lead spitting or noticeable misalignment so I never worried about it. Good Luck Guys. Chris S

Chris
I didnt mean or say anything bout misalignment
Thats a timing issue or worse
Tighting up your cylinder play helps with accuracy like bedding a rifle receiver
If you can get rid of movement you have a better chance of the bullet going the same place everytime
And if you can get the bullet to do the samething every time you squeeze the trigger then you can adjust your sight in for that and hopefully that said bullet goes the same place down range everytime and tighten groups up
On a rifle where theres less moving parts and a lock up(you put round in chamber and theres no real bullet jump from chamber to rifling)tighting thing up is easyer
Revolvers have to line the cylinder to the troat of the barrel and the bullet has to jump from cylinder to forcing cone and then into the rifling
The less movment at time of detonation means less that bullet has to fight to make its way to target
Even if its not perfect if you can find the so called sweet spot you can compensate for it

Im sorry if im long winded or repeat myself or even if im telling you something you already know
Its always been one of my faults

Right, guys, I think I get it.
My Rugers over the years have proven correctly timed, and yep, there are those guys out there for whom the 44 mag just isn't powerful enough, and just have to try to make it into a mini 454 Casull. It seems word is out that Rugers are overbuilt, and so they are a magnet for over loaders. I don't really get this approach, but I've run into it quite a bit.
The wiggle happens when the hammer is down, after the trigger has been pulled and held to the rear. Its been described to me as simply sloppy fitting of the hand/bolt to the cylinder. No, it does not effect the lining up of the chambers to the barrel, but logic states that it won't contribute much to accuracy, either.
Probably the most accurate Ruger I've ever owned was a 1980's vintage GP 100. This gun shot everything well, but it had a penchant for lightweight bullets at screaming velocities. Even there, the cylinder had play. Probably the best Ruger lockup was on an old model SBH. The gun was huge, handled like a wet 2x4, and the Bianchi holster always squeaked on my belt. I truly hated the dragoon grip frame and that square back trigger guard, so it went bye bye.
Anyhow, It does make sense that a stronger spring would help reduce cylinder play, if all other things are in pretty good shape.

Mak

Cock the hammer all the way back hold it there with your thumb
Then squeeze trigger without letting hammer drop
So while your holding hammer in full back position and squeeze'n trigger at same time check the cylinder play by wiggle'n it around
There can be play in hammer down no trigger position i doesnt matter unless its in battery
By doing it  the way i explained it simulates the point of fire where the gun is at time of discharge
Which is where you want tightest lock up
Try it youll see what i mean

I'll try it.
Should mention, I learned the hammer down check from an old timer who's grandad was a gambler, and who got into quite a few gunfights in the late 19th, early 20th centuries. He said it was his way of checking to see that he hadn't shot out his guns.
Be good, but if you can't, then be very bad!

Itll work hammer down
But ya gota cock it squeeze trigger as if shooting
You can put hammer down but still have to have trigger pressed as after the hammer has dropped so its in fired position in relate to trigger reset
So its just like it is when in firing stroke,point of impact so to speak

I didnt mean to take over Chris's thread
I think we shoulda started another
Its all spring related but.....little off topic
We ll have to new thread
Lol